Nudge Theory Misuse and Greenwashing in H&M’s Garment Collecting Program for Circular Fashion

Feby Rachma Alfi Dhiandra; Andes Ismayana; Perdinan Perdinan

doi:10.59141/jiss.v7i6.2396

Authors

Feby Rachma Alfi Dhiandra Institut Pertanian Bogor
Andes Ismayana Institut Pertanian Bogor
Perdinan Perdinan Institut Pertanian Bogor

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.59141/jiss.v7i6.2396

Keywords:

behavioural prod, garment collecting program, greenwashing, moral licensing, nudge theory

Abstract

This paper critically examines H&M's Garment Collecting Program as a behavioural intervention framed under circular fashion and sustainability. The study investigates whether the scheme functions as an ethical application of nudge theory or operates as a pseudo-nudge and behavioural prod that reinforces fast fashion consumption under a green narrative. Using a qualitative descriptive case study, the research draws on desk-based analysis of H&M's official communications, sustainability reports, voucher terms, and relevant academic and analytical sources. Qualitative content analysis is applied to assess four key dimensions of the program's design and communication: transparency of information, structure and strength of incentives, temporal conditions shaping decision-making, and the moral framing of participation. The findings show that the program relies predominantly on Type 1 nudges that trigger automatic responses through immediate discounts, limited transparency regarding post-collection material flows, and simplified claims of circular impact. This configuration facilitates moral licensing and generates psychic cost, enabling consumers to feel ethically compensated while remaining embedded in high-volume consumption patterns. When combined with strong purchase-oriented incentives and constrained resistibility, the intervention aligns more closely with pseudo-nudging and behavioural prodding, and supports a diagnosis of greenwashing by design. The paper argues that ethically robust nudging in circular fashion requires transparent intent, easily resistible choice architectures, proportionate incentives, and verifiable environmental outcomes, and offers principles for redesigning garment collection schemes accordingly.

References

Andrews, C., Gardiner, K., Jain, T. K., Olomi, Y., & North, A. C. (2022). Culture, personal values, personality, uses of music, and musical taste. Psychology of Aesthetics, Creativity, and the Arts, 16(3), 468–478.

Barton, A., & Grüne-Yanoff, T. (2015). From libertarian paternalism to nudging—and beyond. Review of Philosophy and Psychology, 6(3), 341–359. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13164-015-0268-x

Bovens, L. (2009). The ethics of nudge. In T. Grüne-Yanoff & S. O. Hansson (Eds.), Preference change: Approaches from philosophy, economics and psychology (pp. 207–219). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-90-481-2593-7_10

Creswell, J. W., & Poth, C. N. (2016). Qualitative inquiry and research design: Choosing among five approaches (4th ed.). Sage Publications.

Felsen, G., & Reiner, P. B. (2015). What can neuroscience contribute to the debate over nudging? Review of Philosophy and Psychology, 6(3), 469–479. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13164-015-0240-9

Gurnani, K., & Gupta, N. (2024). Factors affecting consumer behaviour in Indian fashion retail industry: A study of recent trends and preferences. International Journal for Multidisciplinary Research, 20(12), 58–61.

H&M Group. (2024). Annual and sustainability report 2024. H&M Group.

H&M Group. (n.d.). Circulator guide. H&M Group.

Hansen, P. G., & Jespersen, A. M. (2013). Nudge and the manipulation of choice: A framework for the responsible use of the nudge approach to behaviour change in public policy. European Journal of Risk Regulation, 4(1), 3–28. https://doi.org/10.1017/S1867299X00002762

Ibrahim. (2018). Metodologi penelitian sosial. Kencana.

Lin, Y., Osman, M., & Ashcroft, R. E. (2017). Nudge: Concept, effectiveness, and ethics. Basic and Applied Social Psychology, 39(6), 293–306. https://doi.org/10.1080/01973533.2017.1356304

Loewenstein, G., & O’Donoghue, T. (2006). “We can do this the easy way or the hard way”: Negative emotions, self-regulation, and the law. The University of Chicago Law Review, 73(1), 183–206.

Lu, X., Sheng, T., Zhou, X., Shen, C., & Fang, B. (2022). How does young consumers’ greenwashing perception impact their green purchase intention in the fast fashion industry? An analysis from the perspective of perceived risk theory. Sustainability, 14(20). https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013473

Miles, M. B., Huberman, A. M., & Saldaña, J. (2018). Qualitative data analysis: A methods sourcebook (3rd ed.). Sage Publications.

Nessim, Y., & Bardey, A. (2022). The rise of female empowerment in Egypt: The fashion psychology behind their attire and armour. In Fashion marketing in emerging economies volume II: South American, Asian and African perspectives (pp. 213–240). Springer.

Olive, C. (2023). Value, virtue, and Vivienne Westwood: On the philosophical importance of fashion. Open Philosophy, 6(1). https://doi.org/10.1515/opphil-2022-0250

Parashar, S. (2022). The economic behavior theory–the nudge theory: An appraisal. International Journal of Transformations in Business Management, 12(1), 53–63. https://doi.org/10.37648/ijtbm.v12i01.003

Saghai, Y. (2013). Salvaging the concept of nudge. Journal of Medical Ethics, 39(8), 487–493. https://doi.org/10.1136/medethics-2012-100727

Saghai, Y. (2023). Good intention, bad intention, and algorithm rethink. In T. Lin (Ed.), After the digital tornado: Networks, algorithms, humanity (pp. 81–102). Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009105281.007

Simbrunner, P., & Schlegelmilch, B. B. (2017). Moral licensing: A culture-moderated meta-analysis. Management Review Quarterly, 67(3), 201–225. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11301-017-0128-0

Thaler, R. H., & Sunstein, C. R. (2008). Nudge: Improving decisions about health, wealth, and happiness. Yale University Press.

Zellweger, T. (2017). The dark side of fast fashion: In search of consumers’ rationale behind the continued consumption of fast fashion (Master’s thesis). Stockholm University.